Day 11 - Seoul

Impossible to sleep. Without waiting for breakfast I filled my backpack with unnecessary things but my heart was light, that compensates. I was finally going to discover the capital of the improperly named "Land of the Morning Calm". The country of the cool morning would have suited Korea better. In this month of December the nights are very cold, largely negative. In addition I have the chance to discover Seoul masked by a thick mist, like a modest princess. I sink into his heart installed in the back of a cranky taxi. Letting myself be carried away by instinct, my day is more likely to resemble a wandering than an itinerary. Furtively I perceive a mysterious antenna as I get out of the taxi. I climb this small alley hoping to learn more about this Korean Eiffel Tower. I go up again, drawn by curiosity. The time to grab my Leica to start this beautiful day in the fog, that the two men had already disappeared.

My steps follow one another, slowly, as the slope is steep. I suddenly arrive in front of a small sign mentioning the cable car leading to Namsan Tower. This one was on my list but I didn't think I would be at these feet at seven in the morning! The cable car only opens at ten o'clock, I try the ascent on foot escorted by many sportsmen. With the help of a slow and regular step I catch up with the first climbers who are a little too ambitious. The birds invite me to continue among the black trees with golden leaves.

Each forest in the world has its own scent, a mixture of essences, mushrooms, and the animals that bring it to life. I clear my mind and fill my lungs and my heart is pounding. After these days of pacing, I free myself in this magical world where nature dominates the concrete.

Always this ineluctable attraction of the top, pushes me to take a few more steps, another turn to contemplate an even more incredible view. Is this a phenomenon specific to human space? After a drop of 262 m, I observe a breathtaking view. The metropolitan area of Seoul is the fifth largest metropolis in the world with 26 million inhabitants, five times the size of Paris and the capital of Korea for more than two thousand years.

I take advantage of my victory to observe the sunrise on the other side of the slope. It comes to caress the black trees with its significant heat, even in December. So the nights are very cold but the days relatively mild. He creates prints with every branch, of every tree.

It is time, around nine in the morning, to begin my descent towards the tumult, following the road, longer and less sloping. I hate to take the same path twice. I still walk through a park with famous men huge and arms outstretched for centuries. I finally arrive at the border between the park and the city. Exactly where I wanted to be, Namdaemun Market.

I slalom a bit between the still empty alleys, naturally following my old bloodhound flair to find second-hand camera shops. First, there were stalls selling very good smelling street foods, hats, lots of hats, plants too. I remember a video mentioning the proximity of these shops to one of the city gates. That's it, a multitude of small shops next to each other with tons of boxes. The dream. But strangely enough, I didn't go through any door. The language barrier, or the lack of real need? On the other hand, my eyes are drawn to this incredible door. Sungnyemun Gate, the Great Southern Gate, is one of the eight gates of Seoul's wall built in 1398. It is the first national treasure. I was lucky to be able to attend the changing of the guard.

I talk to a very nice resident of Singapore who shows me the direction of Deoksugung Palace, which I hasten to join. On the way, I meet a sort of singing demonstration and old people armed with green balloons.

I continue on my way, legs a little heavy and hunger threatening. To find the entrance to one of Seoul's five palaces built by the Joseon dynasty. I walk through time in the middle of the remains of another world. Two thirds were destroyed by Japanese invasions.

I seriously set out to find a restaurant or sit down and regain my strength. After several failed attempts, I spot a group of town planning engineers, three Koreans and an Englishman. I decide to follow them discreetly to guide me towards the peace of the belly. And there, fantastic, at the bend of an unlikely alley, a small Korean barbecue establishment. A warm atmosphere and a delicious meal that is as good as it is spectacular.

I decided to continue my journey to find the second "spot" of photographic boxes by going to Chungmu-ro but before that, a step is necessary on my way. Myenongdong Cathedral, founded by French Catholic missionaries from 1892 to 1898. Only the crypt was accessible during my quick visit. Time to admire the bride and the voyeurs.

This time, direction Chungmu-ro has a cable length of this typically French church carried by the fervor of the faithful. My disappointment was equal to the hope. There is so much to choose from, but the reception is so cold that I only walk into one store. I really seem to annoy the keeper of this cemetery who doesn't even lift his head to send me a simple ‘hee I'm guessing a great Nikon F missing from my collection or a beautiful, dear Canonet. So I decide not to push my investigations any further when I guess the beloved red logo. Leica. I can't avoid this visible target at all. Still disappointed. A welcome just as cold as the drafts of empty alleys. The young man does what he can in English, but communication is still not possible. My Leica M8 around the neck, I must not represent a target for him. However, I did spot a book of Han Youngsao's Photographs that I bought. Fortunately the chef takes matters into his own hands to prevent me from leaving with the demonstration copy!

It is high time to go home and rest my hot feet from a 17-kilometer walk strewn with significant drops. I am not going to dwell on the fervent fight I fought to find a taxi, and to reach my Hotel. I could bring up annoyance notes that would only tarnish a great day as a free walker. "There is no way to happiness, happiness is the way", another sentence that Lao-Tse stole from Mom. In this sense I am happy.

T.